Food & Drink » Mouthful

Shrimp and grits

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JCT Kitchen & Bar: Chef Ford Fry's shrimp and grits preparations vary by the season, but they are always divine. The current version -- gorgeous grits with a piece of toasted bread, perfect shrimp, a poached egg and a splash of truffle oil -- is his best effortso far and a reason to visit if you haven't done so already. 1198 Howell Mill Road. 404-355-2252. www.jctkitchen.com.

Highland Bakery: Highland's shrimp and grits are far from refined. But the mound of grits dotted with seasoned Gulf shrimp and covered with creamy gravy and chopped cilantro is just what the doctor ordered when you are nursing a hangover and couldn't care less about getting dolled up. 655 Highland Avenue. 404-586-0772. www.highlandbakery.com.

Shaun's: Doty places creamy Anson Mills grits in his now signature -- though sometimes cumbersome -- large glass bowl,then addsseasonal shrimp sautéed in butter, a chunk of crispy Berkshire pork belly and a touch of tomato-based Creole sauce. The entire concoction is crowned with a poached egg to increase the decadence factor. 1029 Edgewood Ave. 404-577-4358. www.shaunsrestaurant.com.

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