BEFORE THE BANDWAGON: The owners of P'Cheen must be pissed. No, not in the British sense; I mean they must be mad. Because about two years after this Old Fourth Ward bar opened, serving British classics and inventive specials, the term "gastropub" became the catchphrase du jour. P'Cheen has never been called a gastropub, but the spirit of good food in a bar atmosphere is what it's all about.
THE GRUB: From fish and chips to artichoke gratin with rosemary demi-glace, the menu covers the bar food and serious dinner bases. Our favorite is the daily changing curry trio, with curries represented from all over the world.
WHY WHINE? The beer selection is pretty standard, but look for special selections on tap, such as a Belgian-style farmhouse ale from Brewery Ommegang. Surprisingly, P'Cheen has a wonderful and eclectic budget wine selection, recently including a fantastic white rioja and Routas rosé.
HEY DJ: The neighborhood bar scene gives way to special DJ nights from Thursday to Sunday.
P'Cheen, 701 Highland Ave. 404-529-8800. www.pcheen.com.