It almost hurts to walk inside the copper-lined entrance of the restaurant. It's a palpable feeling of wanting to be cool. Even on a weeknight you'll find high rollers lining the sleek bar, where custom-made lighting fixtures cast only minimal illumination into the pricey liquors and wines being imbibed. Tropical fish tanks and contemporary art only provide a backdrop for men and women strutting their stuff and running up tabs on their platinum cards. The food, like the people, is sculpted and preened to apparent perfection, even if it isn't always substantial.