, the understated, treasured jewel of Atlanta's restaurant landscape, has a simple mission: Seek the finest seasonal ingredients and prepare them in a way that lets their delicious, lyrical essence shine without ostentation. Clifford Harrison and Anne Quatrano, who won a James Beard award (the culinary equivalent of an Oscar) this year, volley nimbly between familiar and unusual flavor combinations on their four-course, prix-fixe dinner menu. Choices change constantly, though the jumbo lump blue crab fritter and a fruit-of-the-moment brown butter tart can typically be relied upon. But really, this isn't a place to play it safe and order favorites time and time again. It's a place to settle in for meal of sublime pleasure and trust capable, passionate chefs to just do their thing.
1198 Howell Mill Road, 404-365-0410. www.starprovisions.com/bacc