Don't let the margarita-swilling EAV hipsters lounging on the patio fool you. Behind the any-old-taqueria façade of HOLY TACO lies a menu that will transport you to a hip bistro in Mexico City (or, for that matter, Barcelona). Chef Robert Phalen has taken the standard Americanized Mexican menu, tweaked it here and there, and then thrown caution to the wind completely. The result is some favorite Mexican dishes made gloriously over-the-top, such as a pork belly torta that is the stuff of piggy legend, and a crispy, musky chicken hearts taco. From there, Phalen goes to Europe and beyond for inspiration. Gorgeous watermelon and tomato salad, or confit mushrooms with lardo and garlic make this one of the best spots for small plates in the city. 1314 Glenwood Ave. 404-230-6177. www.holy-taco.com.
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