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Best Japanese and Best Sushi

Soto Japanese Restaurant

3330 Piedmont Road

Enraged impatience is a small price to pay for food that converts yesterday's sushi-phobes into today's groupies of Sotohiro Kosugi, probably one of the best sushi chefs in America. To avoid the worst service, only dine here if you can get a reservation at the sushi bar. Then sit back and feast on a nouveau version of classic sushi that might include a dash of truffle oil, a dollop of sea-urchin mousse wrapped with squid. The kitchen produces classic Japanese dishes but there are flashes of weirdness remarkable enough to make your tongue feel like a crouching tiger.

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