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Best Indian

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Even stubborn carnivores enthusiastically succumb to the aromatic pleasures of wallet-friendly, South Indian vegetarian newcomer MADRAS SARAVANA BHAVAN housed in a barely remodeled Folks restaurant. Foot-long dosai (savory, stuffed crepes) compete for table space with bhel puri (puffed rice and potatoes in a sweet/savory, crisp/soggy jumble), delicate spinach saag and lemon rice. Try the dreamy shrikhand, cardamom-spiced yogurt cheese with pistachios, for dessert. You don't have to remember how to spell it to love it.

2179 Lawrenceville Highway, Decatur. 404-636-4400.

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