Best comeback

BoccaLupo

Staff Pick

Atlanta first swooned over Bruce Logue's imaginative, made-from-scratch Italian cooking at La Pietra Cucina - now LPC - back in 2008. When Logue left the restaurant in 2012 to focus on his own project, few were surprised. Restless fans rejoiced when he opened BoccaLupo earlier this year, delighted to rediscover favorites from Logue's La Pietra days such as black spaghetti with shrimp and homemade sausage, and eggy tagliatelle with mushrooms and cream. Once again, critics were refreshed by Logue's mind-bending creativity in dishes such as the Vietnamese-inspired bánh mì bruschetta - crispy bread layered with pickled vegetables, slow-cooked pork, and chicken liver. A lot of the menu screams Italy, but count on Logue to source some of the most traditional ingredients from nontraditional locales. Instead of Parma, prosciutto might come from Iowa. The Parmesan cheese in the insanely tasty pappardelle bolognese is sourced from a stateside producer, too. Others dishes, such as spicy hamachi crudo in a fresh cucumber broth and grilled asparagus topped with a slow poached egg and summer truffle focus more on time rather than place. Showing only signs of improvement with age, each trip to BoccaLupo reminds us why we fell in love with Logue in the first place.
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