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Best Buffet

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It's almost unfair to identify the spread at SHIRAZ with the lowly cognomen of "buffet." A Persian feast of exquisite flavors and textures is a more accurate description. The host hands you a menu when you're seated in the Miami mafia-inspired dining room, but politely push it aside and -- like most everyone else in the room -- head to the row of white-clothed tables on the left side of the restaurant. There you'll find sumptuous yogurt and eggplant spreads (to be eaten with hot, crackery bread); fragrant, intricate stews; rice dishes of various hues; and even walnuts and radishes for nibbling. And when your waiter brings out that heaping plate of kebabs? Take a bite or two and save the rest for lunch the next day.

11950 Jones Bridge Road, Alpharetta, 770-751-7272.

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